Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (2024)

Why It Works

  • Browning the brisket deepens its flavor.
  • Braising the brisket completely covered helps trap moisture.
  • Thinly slicing the meat and then submerging it in the braising liquid helps to reinfuse it with juices.

Chances are, brisket became a staple of the European Jewish holiday table because it was an affordable cut of beef. If I didn't know better, though, I might guess that it was because brisket is a cut that brings hardship—and we Jews are no strangers to that.

The hardship, in the case of brisket, is the near impossibility of cooking it nicely. Brisket can be tender, or it can be moist, but rarely both. Most of us settle for tender and dry, although most of us are also in extreme denial about this. If I had a penny for every time a sawdust-y slab of brisket was praised for being moist and tender...well, I'd be able to eat a heck of a lot more prime rib, for starters.

And yet, like many Jews who have spent their lives eating brisket that's slowly braised with sweet onions and carrots, I have a serious soft spot for the stuff. Even the dry stuff. But that doesn't mean I want dry brisket. So I've been running some tests to try to figure out how to make it both tenderandmoist. The good news is it's possible, but it helps to know a few things to get there.

How to Prevent Tough, Dry Brisket

Understanding why brisket is problematic starts with understanding the muscle itself. Brisket is a slab of meat that comes from the breast of the animal, and it can be divided into two parts: the first and second cuts. The first cut is often called the flat, while the second cut is sometimes called the point cut or sometimes the deckle.

It might help to think of a whole brisket, with both the first and second cuts included, as being shaped like anImperial Star Destroyer. The first cut, or flat, is like the big flat slab that makes up the body of the ship, while the second cut is those smaller structures that sit on top of it.

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (1)

Both the first and the second cuts are tough, meaning they're rich in muscle-strengthening collagen. It takes a long time to melt collagen into tender gelatin, so tough cuts are routinely slow-cooked. The challenge is that one of the side effects of long cooking is a loss of moisture, which happens as muscle fibers contract and squeeze out their water content.

For most collagen-rich tough cuts, that's not a huge problem, since they usually have enough moist fat to compensate for the loss of water. But brisket is a weird case: The first cut is very lean, with almost no fat except for a layer that runs along its top surface. Only the second cut is laced with ample fat, guaranteeing juiciness even after a long braise.

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (2)

Most of the time when you buy a brisket, though, you don't get the fatty second cut—you get only the lean, dryness-prone flat. The simplest solution to the dry-brisket problem, then, is to buy one with the fatty second cut attached (or just buy the fatty second cut and ditch the first cut entirely). Any braised brisket dish made with the second cut will be better. But, unfortunately, the second cut can be hard to find—many meat suppliers don't sell it—and, since I know some folks won't want to bother tracking it down, I worked out a recipe using just the first cut that still comes out juicy.

There are two key steps to making it work. The first is to braise the brisket in a sealed vessel. This runs counter to one ofour main beef stew rules(which apply equally well to braises): namely, that you want to partially cover the braise to allow gradual evaporation of liquid and surface browning of the meat, leading to better flavor development.

In my tests, I found that lean brisket cooked in a completely sealed vessel retained more juice than brisket that was partially exposed. Even brisket that was cooked mostly covered, and then uncovered for the last 30 minutes to brown slightly, showed increased drying. It's a sacrifice to lose some of that browning and flavor development, but it's a necessary one to prevent the meat from drying out.

The second secret to juicy brisket is to thinly slice the meat once it's done, and then submerge the slices in the braising liquid for about 30 minutes before serving. Thinly slicing the meat increases its surface area, allowing you to expose more of the meat to the braising juices, moistening it more fully.

It's not unlike Cubanropa vieja, wherein a lean cut of beef is cooked until falling apart—and also totally dry—then shredded into thin strands that are tossed in the cooking liquid. The stringy shreds of beef have so much surface area, all of it coated in cooking juices, that they seem moist even though they've thoroughly dried out during cooking. (With the brisket, though, instead of shredding its long muscle fibers into strands, we're cutting across them to shorten the fiber length and increase its tenderness.)

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (3)

How to Cook Jewish-Style Brisket

My actual cooking process goes like this: I start by browning the brisket to develop some of its flavor. This is especially important, since it's going to be covered in the oven and therefore won't brown later.

If you have a large stainless steel roasting pan, you can brown the brisket right in the pan. If you don't, you can put the brisket on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and brown it under the broiler. Please, though, whatever you do, don't trim any fat off the brisket—the lean flat cut needs all the fat it can get.

I also brown the aromatics—that is, the carrots, onion, celery, and garlic. Once again, if you have a suitable roasting pan, you can do this right in the pan after the meat has come out. If not, you can brown them in a skillet with some oil.

In a lot of ourbeef stew recipes, we add aromatics like carrots later in the long cooking process, to help them retain flavor and texture. Maybe it's just nostalgia for how I ate this brisket as a kid, but part of what I love about it is the way all the vegetables break down to form a thick, chunky, deeply flavorful sauce. I put them all in from the beginning.

Then I stir in a small amount of ketchup (you can also use tomato paste, but I like the subtle hit of vinegar and sugar from the ketchup), along with some crushed whole tomatoes and their juices.

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (4)

Once the meat and vegetables are browned, I deglaze any browned bits with a small amount of dry red wine. Then I bring it all together in a pan large enough to hold it—either that very same heavy-duty roaster you've been using for everything else, or a thin-walled aluminum or disposable roasting pan—and cover it with foil.

It's worth noting that there is no consensus at all on what should go into a Jewish braised brisket. I've seen recipes that call for orange juice, Coca-Cola, or lots of ketchup, and add-ins like figs and ginger. I keep mine incredibly simple, just tossing in some thyme and bay leaves for herbal aromatics, and leave it at that. It's not only the flavor profile I grew up with; it's also one that speaks to the potential of even the most basic set of ingredients.

With the brisket ready to go, I put it in a low 300°F (150°C) oven until it's tender, which takes somewhere between three and four hours.

To be honest, my preference is to cook the brisket at an even lower temp, about 275°F (135°C). The lower the oven is, the less quickly the muscle fibers will contract, and the juicier the meat will be. The problem is that there's too much variation in oven behavior to recommend a temperature that low. Some ovens, for instance, will dip too far below the specified temperature, causing the beef to take several times as long to cook. So 300°F is a safer number, allowing more room for error and therefore producing more reliable results (although you should still always use a thermometer to confirm your oven is calibrated correctly).

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (5)

When the brisket is tender enough that you can easily slide a fork into it, it's done. I transfer it to a cutting board and let it rest for about 30 minutes, then slice it thinly against the grain. Then I put the slices back into the braising liquid and let them soak for about a half hour while keeping it warm.

You can, of course, cook the braise a day or two ahead, then refrigerate it and reheat it before serving, but it's not true that it tastes better on subsequent days—we've put that one to the test, and it doesn't hold up.

The most impressive thing about this dish is just how damned delicious it is when it's all done. Starting with a very basic set of ingredients, you end up with something deeply flavorful and fundamentally transformed, far more than the sum of its parts. With these tricks, it may actually be moist for once, too.

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (6)

April 2016

Recipe Details

Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe

Cook4 hrs 25 mins

Active45 mins

Resting Time60 mins

Total5 hrs 25 mins

Serves6to 8 servings

Ingredients

  • 6 pounds (2.75kg) whole beef brisket (see note)

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 2 tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil

  • 2 pounds yellow onions (1kg; about 5 medium), sliced 1/4 inch thick

  • 1 pound carrots (450g; about 6 medium), cut into large dice

  • 1/2 pound celery (225g; about 4 large ribs), cut into large dice

  • 6 medium cloves garlic

  • 1 cup (240ml) dry red wine

  • 1 (14-ounce; 400g) can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, with the juices

  • 1/3 cup (80ml) ketchup

  • 4 sprigs thyme

  • 2 bay leaves

Directions

  1. If Using a Stainless Steel Roasting Pan: Season brisket all over with salt and pepper. Set a large stainless steel roasting pan over 2 burners set to medium-high heat, add oil, and heat until shimmering. Add brisket and brown on both sides, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer brisket to a work surface. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic to roasting pan and cook, stirring, until just starting to brown in spots, about 6 minutes; season with salt. Add wine and bring to a simmer while scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan. Stir in tomatoes and ketchup and return brisket to roasting pan, nestling it among vegetables.

  2. If Using a Disposable Aluminum Roasting Pan: Preheat broiler and set oven rack to highest position. Season brisket all over with salt and pepper and place on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Broil brisket, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer brisket to a disposable aluminum roasting pan. Remove rack from baking sheet, pour wine into baking sheet, and scrape up any browned bits on bottom. Meanwhile, in a large cast iron or stainless steel skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring, until starting to brown in spots, about 6 minutes; season with salt. Add wine to vegetables and bring to a simmer, then stir in tomatoes and ketchup. Scrape vegetables into roasting pan with brisket.

    Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (7)

  3. Add thyme and bay leaves to roasting pan and cover well with foil. Set oven to 300°F (150°C) and cook brisket on middle rack until fork-tender, 3 to 4 hours.

    Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (8)

  4. Transfer brisket to a work surface and let rest 30 minutes. Skim fat from surface of braising liquid and season liquid with salt and pepper; discard thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Slice brisket thinly against the grain, then transfer back to braising liquid, making sure to submerge slices well. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes in a warm place. Serve. Brisket can be made up to 4 days ahead and refrigerated whole or sliced in its braising liquid. Reheat gently before serving.

    Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (9)

Special Equipment

Stainless steel roasting pan, or disposable aluminum baking pan and rimmed baking sheet with wire rack

Notes

For the juiciest brisket, try to use one that still has the second cut (also called the point or the deckle) attached. It has more intramuscular fat than the more common, lean first cut, and will remain moister as a result. If using just the first cut, be sure not to trim any fat—it needs the fat for moistness.

For a pressure cooker version of this recipe, clickhere.

  • Brisket
  • Passover
  • Hanukkah
Jewish-Style Braised Brisket With Onions and Carrots Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to moist tender brisket? ›

Texas Crutch Method: The Texas crutch method involves wrapping the brisket tightly in foil or butcher paper during the cooking process. This helps retain moisture and speeds up the cooking time, resulting in a tender and flavorful brisket.

What is the best liquid to keep brisket moist? ›

After two or four hours of cooking, you can lightly spray your brisket with water, hot sauce, apple cider vinegar, or apple juice. You can do this every 30 minutes or every hour, based on preference.

What do Jewish people eat with brisket? ›

Brisket is a popular Ashkenazi Jewish dish of braised beef brisket, served hot and traditionally accompanied by potato or other non-dairy kugel, latkes, and often preceded by matzo ball soup. It is commonly served for Jewish holidays such as Hanukkah, Passover, Rosh Hashanah, and Shabbat.

What makes Jewish brisket different? ›

The Jewish Influence on Brisket

Ashkenazi Jews have eaten brisket during Passover and other holidays for a very long time and for pretty sensible reasons. As per Jewish custom, as mentioned before, the hindquarters of the beef are not kosher, meaning that Jews have always had fewer cuts to choose from.

How do you make brisket more flavorful? ›

Marinade. If you want to go with a marinade for your brisket plan on soaking the brisket in it for a good 24 hours to let the flavor deep into the meat. To make the meat more tender use an acid-based marinade. Try using lemon or lime juice or any type of vinegar.

What is the best way to tenderize a brisket? ›

Slow cook it. Tough cuts of meat with lots of connective tissue, like brisket, chuck roast, and bottom round, are some of the best choices for the slow cooker. Cooked low and slow for many hours, the collagen in these tough cuts eventually breaks, leaving you with shreds of tender, juicy meat.

Do you cook brisket fat side up or down? ›

To set things straight, we're here to put an end to the confusion, so you can get back to the grill with confidence. For brisket cooked to flavorful perfection, fat-side-down is the way to go. This is the only way to achieve a brisket that is perfectly moist with a perfect bark on both sides.

Should brisket be covered in liquid while cooking? ›

To braise properly, you don't want the meat to be all the way covered with stock and wine—liquid should come up about halfway on the brisket. For me, that was about 1 ½ quarts of chicken stock, but a bigger pan may need 2 quarts.

Is dry rub or wet rub better for brisket? ›

Dry rubs are ideal if you need a sear but works just as well when you smoke or slow cook. And finally, wet rubs are perfect if you are going the slow route for cooking.

Why don't Jews eat filet mignon? ›

Technically, filet mignon is as kosher as any other cut of meat. The problem with filet mignon and other cuts from the rear is that they are located near the sciatic nerve and fatty deposits known in Hebrew as chelev, which are Biblically forbidden.

Why do Jews love brisket? ›

Brisket Started As A Humble, Cheap Cut Of Meat

Since the laws of Kosher forbid pork (and even part of the cow), and most Jewish families were not particularly wealthy, this made brisket a natural choice for Jews to feed their families.

Why do Jews like brisket so much? ›

Brisket was a favorite for holiday celebrations, such as Rosh Hashanah, Passover, Hanukkah, and Shabbat. Jewish communities first began to favor this cut because it comes from the breast of the cow, located in the front, which makes it kosher.

What is the tastiest part of brisket? ›

The point has extremely tender meat, to the point it falls apart, and it's also bursting with incredible flavor. The only difference is that the fat content is a lot, which means you'll have less meat to work with.

Why is brisket so expensive? ›

Quality and Grade: The quality and grade of the brisket play a significant role in its price. Higher-quality or graded meats, such as USDA Prime, are often more expensive than lower-quality cuts like choice or select. Cut and Trim Level: The way the brisket is cut and trimmed can affect its price.

What is brisket called in Hebrew? ›

Chazeh Bakar

Does wrapping a brisket make it more moist? ›

Advantages Of Wrapping

Wrapping a brisket helps seal in the moisture and juices for the duration of the cooking process, which prevents your meat from drying out in the smoker.

What is the best temperature for moist brisket? ›

The meat still needs a couple of hours in a higher temperature range to fully render fat and dissolve collagen. Brisket can be done in a range of 200-210°F (93-99°C), but as a general rule, it's safe to bet on 203°F (95°C). Brisket should be tender but not so tender it's falling apart.

How do you get a dry rub to stick to a brisket? ›

If you're finding the rub isn't sticking to the meat, you can drizzle a bit of olive oil over the brisket and then add the rub, using your hands to evenly coat the meat. You can also add oil to the dry rub to turn it into a wet rub.

References

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